The time had come for 4 days jam packed with adventure, mountains, mud, card games, bug spray and sweltering sun.

Before we started we were fed a big typical Colombian meal of meat, plantain, frijoles, rice, and a tiny bit of salad. We all sat down together, all wondering if this was going to be our group for the trek and all a bit reserved.

Ollie and I were also singled out as the non-chicken meaters, ever heard of that before? Ollie made me write on our allergen sheet that we don’t eat chicken after hearing that one person got a dodgy stomach from it. I could see everyone looking and trying to work out if it was some sort of religious preference. Instantly, we were labelled as the weird English couple.

After we all finished our lunch and canela (sugarcane) juice we we were introduced to our guides. We had Enrique (the main guide in his 60s), Danilo (the translator who was also a ladies man) and Gio (Enrique’s assistant who looked about 17 but was actually a father of a 4 year old). All of them instantly made me feel relaxed through their smiles and excitement.

Enrique went around offering everyone hiking poles which only a few of us took. Anything that can keep me from falling on my arse I will take. Only a few of us ended up taking these. It was then time to name our group and we called ourselves ‘the panela’s’ after our refreshing lunchtime juice.

One of the most important parts of any trek is seeing who you are going to be stuck with for the four days. Our group was an eclectic mix of people from England, America, Germany, Holland and France. Gio said the most popular nationality on this trek is German.

Introducing our group – we had two French friends (definately having a rende vouz), Fee (thirty year old from Brixton who went to Ursuline) , Doctor Leanne from Holland (who became crticial throughout the hike), a lovely German couple, Lawrence from America who was 69 (everyone was convinced he was ex CIA), Elaine from New York who wore a massive hat, a Dutch man who kept himself to himself, a Argentinian couple who made the stupid mistake of bringing one huge bag to take in turns to carry, then finally a group of German women including a mum and daughter.

Day 1 was basically entirely uphill but as we all had lots of energy it wasn’t too hard. Also, we weren’t yet walking in the jungle but on a dirt track where cars and motorbikes constantly passed us.

I enjoyed the first day as there were many stop offs at the beginning including a fresh orange juice stand followed by many more fruit stops supplied by the tour. I had the most delicious watermelon and pineapple I have ever had in my life.

In terms of hiking ability, we were quite a strong group of walkers. This is always good as it means everyone kept up with one another and no one was left behind. Although, the excessive “this isn’t that bad” did begin to piss me off as I knew the next days were much harder.

The other thing you need to remember is when you get to a nice downhill part you know you will have to walk up it on your way back.

Danilo pointed out camp and we all gave out a happy scream as we had probably been walking for around 3 hours. Lucky for us it wasn’t blasting heat the whole way and we had some clouds protecting us. As we got closer to camp the track started to turn a brighter orange and it felt like we were on mars of something.

At camp, we all dropped our bags and ran straight to the natural pool we’d been dreaming about. I think we were all in realisation we’d be damp with sweat the entire time. Everyone was jumping off this huge rock into the pool and I shook off my fear and joined in. My first ever cliff jump. Lesson, next time don’t wear a skimpy bikini.

When we were all dry we went back to the chill out area and a loud of snacks were waiting for us. Another lesson, you don’t need to bring your own snacks with you as Ollie and I brought far too much but they’ll come in handy for future travelling days.

In the evening, I ate trout and Ollie had the vegetarian meal which was a omelette. Our dessert was a Gol bar which was amazing and quickly became the group’s favourite chocolate. It takes like a squares bar. At around 8pm I called it a night, I think the others stayed up until latest 9pm playing a big game of cards.

Lights came on at 5am for a 5:30am breakfast. It took me about four foot grabs to wake Ollie up. I think we would have missed everyone leaving if it wasn’t for me. His earplugs must be too good. The breakfast was good. We ate the typical eggs, plantain, sweet bread, and fruit.

The beginning of day 2 was when the real challenge began. As we entered the jungle it began getting hotter by the minute. The terrain was also less flat and it became more rocky. It was time to stop looking up the entire time and start concentrating on my feet. This sort of terrain is called ‘Colombian flat’ which is everything it is not.

Our guides stopped us several times to tell us stories about the area and to describe the lives of local indigenous people who lived here. There are four indigenous tribes in la Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta – the Kogi, Arhuaro, Wiwa and the Kankuamo.

In a Kogi village, we were lucky enough to talk with a member of the Kogi tribe teaching us all about their local traditions and customs.

Around midday, we arrived at the first stop which was the camp we stay in on the final night. Again, we were all so excited to dunk our heads in another beautiful natural pool that was meant to be even better than the first, it was. This is when I regretted not bringing flip flops as my city girl London feet are not built to walk over rocks.

The natural pool was so refreshing and the sun was out so everyone was chilling. Everyone but Ollie who was throwing himself around, trying to go down non-existent rapids and jumping off rocks that probably shouldn’t be jumped off. Then it was lunchtime and it seemed Ollie forgot he said we weren’t eating Chicken. I turned to my right and Ollie was gobbling down a massive piece of grilled chicken. I then had to explain to some very confused chefs that it was a mistake – embarrassing.

This next half of day 2 was definitely the most difficult. The guides were very excited to tell us we were just in time for ‘happy hour’ which was an hour steep hike uphill.

After a couple river crossings we were told it was time to fuel our body and we ate tons of watermelon for hydration. Up we went. I really have to get into the zone when I’m going uphill and I don’t talk to anyone. This ‘zone’ actually makes me super fast and Ollie always looks shocked as I race ahead. At the top we felt a major sense of achievement but I still had the steep uneven climb up to Lost City in my thoughts.

After another three-four hour walk we arrived to our home for the evening. In comparison to the previous this was a lot worse and there was a particular smell of rubbish in the air. The rest of the evening was spent chatting, playing cards, and gobbling down a huge plate of spaghetti bolognese with their odd Colombian cheese. I got into a long conversation with the German couple, she was also in marketing (similarly unsatisfied after doing a nutrition degree) and he was in extremist prevention. Our chat definately made me question what I want to do with my life. Time for that though when I’m back in London.

I had been sleeping so well here. There was something about our little malaria net cacoons that were so cosy and comforting.

After another great sleep it was time for breakfast which was sausages and the usual suspects. Then it was time for the most important day of the entire trek, we were going to the Lost City.

The guides told us it would be an hour walk until we reached the terrifying steps up to the City. Before that, we had to cross a big river and there were two options. Option one, take your shoes off and go through the river barefoot. Option two, take a zip wire swing across where you are manually flung across in a cage. I am sure you guessed it and yes I did go for the safer option one. I am so glad that I did. One couple got stuck in the middle and the sudden force meant the man slammed his face onto the iron bar. Thank God it wasn’t worse as he could have fallen out, but he did have three open wounds, a massive bump, and a black eye to show for it. Surgeon Leanne came to the rescue and he was taped up.

Drama done and now for the steps. 1200 of them. The stairs go up steeply and the steps are uneven and narrow. Fair is fair, I am not overexaggerating as this starcase is tough. Worse of all, it doesn’t seem to end. I don’t know how Lawrence the 69 yr old American man did it.

At the top the real tour begins. You get there so early, that you almost see the city wake up. The first rays of sunshine and the hummings from the birds are just magical.

You walk along many sections of ruins. Each time you go up another flight of stairs you think this is it but the City just keeps going. Not only that, 70% of the lost city hasn’t being discovered but the indigenous doesn’t want it excavated.

Enrique gave us an extensive talk on the archaeological site. He told us that at one time up to 8,000 people lived in the Lost City but it was abandoned during the Spanish Conquest. Then in 1972 it was re-discovered when tomb raidars found the steps and named it the “green hell”.

It is hard to describe the Lost City and pictures are much better. It is basically a huge aread consisting of around 170 stone terraces carved into a mountain, with numerous small “plazas” and what would be connecting “streets”.

At the viewpoint, our amazing guides prepare a a plate with chips, nuts, chocolate and loads of fruit. We all regained our strength and were ready for our photoshoots.

We were lucky as the spiritual leader (the only person and his family to live in the Lost City) was around. Our entire group met him and he blessed us with homemade bracelets signifying water, earth, moon, and sky. Obviously not for free. I was worried mine would symbolise fertility as this is of high importance to the indigenous tribes. Danilo tricked Ollie and I making us touch a mssive rock, the rock of fertility. Not today, thank you.

Time to walk down the infamous stairs. The steps seemed steeper and everyone made sure to be careful. Ollie held my hand the entire way down, as I am a big baby. A few people fell, including Lawrence who caught himself exactly how a ex CIA agent would.

The City itself was breathtaking and we were all relatively quiet at lunch. Everyone independently reminiscing on the experience.

As we started walking again it dawned on me that everytime I thought we were almost there, I was wrong. Basically everything we ascended yesterday we had to descend today.

After 3 hours we reached the campsite that we had lunch at yesterday. At dinnertime there was a real sense of team morale and everyone was in high spirits. We ended up talking for ages about every countires political/economical situation. I was shocked by all but particularly Argentina. They were saying they have 94% inflation each year.

Bed time was at 9pm and Danilo pointed all the couples to the double beds, which was a nice treat. Although, we both feel asleep in about 5 minutes and Ollie snoring in about 2.

The final day was the worse as it had be bucketing down with rain all night and morning. This meant the whole team were slippy and sliding everywhere. It was hilarious and I was crying with laughter throughout the day. It was a mud bath. At one point Enrique had to chase after me as I couldn’t stop sliding.

Our break was at the first camp (my favourite) where we were all given these cake slices. On a normal day I’d probably pass but we were all starving so they tasted one of a kind.

From the camp there were a couple of steep mountains we had to climb before we reached the flags and then the paved road. It seemed so close but we were still a long way from civilisation. After a couple hours walking we finally see the first few houses and then we start seeing groups who are only just beginning.

We walk into the lunch spot, everyone is applauding! There was something so euphoric about this as we were too applauding. Everyone is so proud and exhausted.

We finished with our favourite fried, the trout. Afterwards the team rallied together to collect a tp and the German guy made a lovely speech thanking the guides, translator, and the chef.

Would recommend to anyone!